The Real Schedule

Since the last update a lot has gone on...I will begin by explaining the big illness scare and the amount of guilt I felt missing my second day of school. I woke up Wednesday morning freezing cold (chills is an understatement). It took me a moment to remember that even though it is winter here it is never cold sleeping in my cramped bottom bunk surrounded with mosquito net. My whole body hurt and my throat was definitely swollen. Catherine and Danielle took my temperature, a little over 100..."So, then it's not malaria?!" Suddenly all of our references to eating malaria, getting bit by malaria, or snorting malaria weren't so funny. Thankfully Andy came home from school with biscuits (cookies), tea, extra sheets, and African airborne. I slept the entire day on and off, still managing to go to bed early. Thursday morning I felt much better and headed out for school.

Elizabeth knew I didn't feel well (she was the 4th person to tell me "you don't look well", and you know what that means in the states). Our first class of the day began with impromptu speeches. I was immediately thankful I made the effort. I showed Elizabeth our section on impromptu speeches which she read thoroughly and excitedly pointed out what looked familiar. She wrote out topics before hand- much different than our choices- we had "mending a puncture (a bike tire), washing clothes, and playing football (soccer)". Much like I would do in class she asked the students the reasoning behind why an impromptu speech would be important. Surprisingly similar answers, "to help us talk in front of people, think on our feet", and a unique answer for me to hear, "to speak her language better". The students took their time and looked at me for head nods as they pronounced certain words (Elizabeth does a great job helping them with annunciation). They thanked me for my help and clapped for me...They also plugged their noses and said "byyyyyyeeee" in a very high pitched tone as I left ( "that is what munus sound like to them" Elizabeth said....I thought- "great, so I sound like a congested valley girl"...

Elizabeth then took me to the "sick bay" (nurse)...VERY interesting. She did not ask me how I felt or what my symptoms were; she scooped out a number of pills from an unmarked plastic container and said, "ummm, you take 3, 2 times day". I asked if they were penicillin... She said, "ummm, no, I think, no"...Obviously I gave the pills to Elizabeth and explained yet another one of my allergies to her. She is like a Uganda mom...She asks when I will have a family (I say hopefully soon, when I finish school), she asks about my family and thinks it's good I have enough cousins, and she has now hopped on the hair bandwagon ('They giggle at you because they want to know how a munu has so much hair and how it is so dark....Is it real?...And what about these white pieces in the front....Did you forget to color those?") I explained the coloring/highlighting process and she thinks she will find me "chemicals" to make her hair this color too. I left for the weekend with instructions to find pictures of aquariums...We will be covering aquariums and letter writing this week (lesson plans here are very spontaneous)...The children here do not know what aquariums are; I decided to make a powerpoint presentation to show them. We got on separate bodas to town and during my lunch she called to make sure "I arrived home safe"...Like I said, a Uganda mom.

Friday was a day off...Andy, Nathan, Julie, and I ran some errands and made it to the Acholi Inn by 11:30 am. That's right, we laid out by the pool! We did get in the pool, which seemed more like a lake, murky, a bit slimy, and filled with bugs...Still extremely refreshing in the heat near the equator. By the time we got back to the house we remembered that yes, we were just about on the equator, hence our wicked burns....No need to worry, we were savagely tan by the next morning.

I woke up in the middle of the night to Jenni's face in my mosquito net, "Mandy, can you wake up, there's a mouse in the toilet"...I got up to assess the situation....I stood outside the door contemplating what I could use to scoop it out and thought I should take a look at it...It was not a mouse, it was definitely a rat...A huge gray, furry, long-tailed rat in a toilet filled with pee (we let it "mellow" to save water), scampering on the side in an attempt to escape. After asking her if she was blind we starting asking like huge girls. Within minutes Catherine and Danielle came to see what was going on...I suggested the obvious solution, "We need to get Nathan, he'll touch it". And of course it went like a script. "Nathan, get up, we need you." Out of his mosquito net and bounding off the top bunk like something in Baywatch he came flying down the hall. He ran to get a cup and went to work...The rat was excited too, and I would estimate a weight of a few pounds as I heard it hit the bathroom floor..."Get another cup", Nathan says...By this point I'm on the chair in the hall while the other girls are curled on top of each other...I could only say, "Don't put the cups back after this"...Really intelligent comment in the state of urgency... So, with 2 cups Nathan had the rat trapped and on it's way out (except for the 6 inches of tail that was sticking out), back to bed we went.

Saturday we woke up and packed for our rhino expedition. I was unaware that the metatu ride there would be an adventure in itself. It was about a 3 hour drive, through small villages, through beautiful scenery, and back over the rushing Nile. The accommodations were amazing, it seemed like a small resort. AND flushing toilets?!?!....5 star for sure! We went out into the bush and found 3 rhinos...They seem to be chill animals and didn't move much as we all stood around taking pictures...We fought "swass, swack, and swalls" (imagine sweaty body parts) as we were in the direct sunlight for our journey. We got an amazing dinner of pasta with a cream sauce (with mushrooms that I accidentally ate), and REAL parmesan cheese that we all ate out of the bowl with our hands. We sat around a tiki hut bar and drank Clubs (favorite Uganda beer hands down) and had a relaxing night away. There were random rescued animals on site (African greys, and "deer-like things with horns", that took a liking to Andy)...Our ride home seemed much quicker as our metatus seemed to be weaving in and out of traffic, chimps, long-horned cows, and people averaging what seemed a very unsafe speed....Needless to say that even after one of the metatus pulled kind of over for a spontaneous short-call in a very public place (right on the street), we made it home safe...At this point the house is passing around what seems to be "a bit of a bug", and looking back I am thankful for my sore throat and runny nose in comparison to the beating that the pit latrines are taking outside.

Back to School

As if the food situation wasn’t interesting enough we were introduced to Ethiopian food at the restaurant around the corner from the house. We met the high school students from the states that won the Invisible Children Schools for Schools challenge. We mingled and listened to the creative ways that they raised money for the organization...And I watched as everyone ate very runny foods with their hands...That sight set me back just a few more days from any chance of me trying something new. We got back home and realized that there had been a white ant invasion. The “white ants” were larger than regular ants with large white wings...They were ruthless and we ran around boxing them to the floor and shutting all the windows. We then shut off the lights and watched them outside as they looked like sheets of rain. Danielle informed us that the guard was collecting them in his bucket because they are “good” deep fried. Yum...No, I disagree with the new house quote that, “anything is good deep fried”.

Today was the first real day of school. I had to be there at 9:00 a.m. to meet Elizabeth in the staff room. I walked to the boda corner to catch my first alone-alone boda ride at 8:30. Again, my ride was long but scenic and beautiful. Upon arrival to the school I was warmly welcomed by all of the other teachers, literally, “You are very welcome”, kindest hello ever. Elizabeth came in and gave me 3 versions of an English book and 1 teacher’s manual to go over while she lectured her first class. The books are dilapidated and there are too few copies for all of the students. I still enjoyed thumbing through and found it interesting to study sections much like in the states, “work with a partner, read and respond, and listen and say”. After the first class Elizabeth brought me a bottled water and a roll of toilet paper (you can NEVER drink the water unless bottled and pit latrines RARELY have t.p. available), so this was a very kind gift. I was also happy to see that she was wearing the necklace that I made for her. She brought her giant map of the states to see “where I came from” and I was able to point out Hammond where I teach. The staff room filled as it was time for tea and donuts(kind of).

She took me to her next class where I introduced myself to a room of giggling boys. They range in age from around 11 to 25. After I was done speaking she asked if they knew what I had said....An uproar of laughter...I still need to practice slowing down my speech. I was elated to know that upon Elizabeth’s reference to the Chicago Bulls there were multiple students who referenced their Chicago Bulls t-shirts and knowledge of Michael Jordan...Priceless. She gave a lecture about the library, telling students how to check out books and also what the purpose was. I was so impressed to see them all taking notes as she spoke; she purposely writes small amounts on the board so they have to listen well.

After lunch I met the art teacher and discussed being able to paint my own fabric...They say I look creative. Another highlight of the day came when Geoffrey (Amber’s team teacher), tried a piece of chewing gum...I was in sheer amazement when he seemed so surprised that it just “kept chewing”. It was a long full day and definitely reminded me that I was in Uganda as my head started “wagging” and there was no coffee to be had. I was excited to have our first roundtable meeting after school with Catherine, our coordinator, to discuss KOBS (Knowledge Of Behavior and Self) program that we will be discussing at our teaching conference. I will have the chance to interview some students regarding conflict, self esteem, and friendship building...

I learned that some of these students have never seen a munu (except during the war when food was passed out)...This is what I’m here for...

Wall at school, St. Jude Orphanage, my school (Sir Samuel Baker) classroom, "neighbor girl", our "Home"

Simple Life...

We had a beautiful sunset dinner with our teachers on Friday night outside the back of a gorgeous hotel. Elizabeth is my teacher’s name, she has 4 children and has taught English/Language Arts and Christian Religious Studies. As usual I am sticking to rice. I really would be able to live on rice and bananas....Although the fruit is all amazing. Elizabeth said she will cook for me; that probably means I will definitely have to try something. After dinner we found Simon, a boda driver who also teachers break dancing. I got his number to get safe rides to school and also to attend some of his classes on days off.

On Saturday I took a long boda ride to my school (Probably about 15-20 minutes), which on a boda and some real village roads seems like an eternity. The drive is absolutely gorgeous. It is filled with hills and we passed smaller villages along the way. The roofs of the huts were brightened with clothes laid out to dry. There were women along the side of the road selling potatoes on blankets along with children carrying huge jugs of water. There were also many other NGOs along the way and I was stoked to pass the office of CARE Uganda. The entrance to the school is grand with a large statue of Sir Samuel Baker. Invisible Children has helped the school with beds, water, a computer lab, rehabbed classrooms, and a large wall which Elizabeth says is “to keep people out”. (I couldn’t help but think about the war during this discussion). It is clear that things in Gulu are improving and there is much hope however it is clear that many of the arrangements being made are revolved around safety and preventative ideas. She taught me how to read her schedule (this is printed on a small board in tiny letters and differentiates the differences between classrooms and classes.) I will be teaching Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday from about 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. During our conversation she promised a trip to one of her three tailors to have skirts made.

Everyone here wears skirts, headbands, and purses printed with the most beautiful African patterns.

We walk the village streets after we are done with meetings. It seems so strange to me but I can honestly say that I feel at home. In the midst of burning garbage, goats, and random bodas flying by, it is “home”. The time here is different, people actually embrace their time instead of using it as a method to get from point A to B. My anxiety is non-existent and I spend a lot of time living in the moment (something that was so hard in the states). I have not used much technology with the exception of these updates and the occasional call home; I have thoroughly enjoyed not having a cell phone attached to my ear and the simplicity of having to walk to an internet cafe to check email. I blew my blowdryer out as well. I was very excited in front of the group when I got 30 seconds of powerful air, then nothing....And that’s good too. We went to KSP, a hotel bar, at night and got escorted to the rooftop to briefly enjoy the view. We played pool, drank local beer, and watched the world cup. Undoubtably the best night here as Andy and I took a boda home in the beginning of our first “real” Uganda rain. We got dropped off in front of the house to a single clap of thunder and torrential downpour within seconds. The rain was slightly warm (warmer than our shower) and refreshing. By the time we made it into the house we were welcomed by headlamps and flashlights because the power had gone out.

Today we went to St. Jude’s house, an orphanage deep into the village. As soon as our metuta (looks like a van, it will be what we will take our safari in...And there is seating on top!) pulled up the children started running towards it. They instantly grabbed for our hands and followed us around while we got the tour begging to be held and swung from our arms. They were ranging in ages with the youngest being 2 months...Many mothers stay there with their children as they are known as “rebel babies”, and often not allowed back into the village. As amazing as it was to be surrounded by angelic faces reaching for your hair and yearning to be tickled; I left with a broken heart. Another reminder of the remnants of war here.

Bavavuka performers, Kampala school, view of Kampala, monkey-friend at hostel

Lessons

Yesterday there were 4 Ugandan teachers that took the time to describe in detail what it was like to teach in a war torn community...In DETAIL...Being here thus far it is difficult to imagine what it looked like when the streets were empty because of the war...We were reminded of the reason we are here. We were reminded of how different we really are. And we were reminded that we all have this passion to teach...I was taught that a true passion for teaching comes with yearning to go back to a school at risk, at risk of abduction or murder, all for the sake of students.

Our family is tight-knit here and now have no qualms about asking which latrine is bug-free or smells more fresh (like that is even possible). In our "front yard" we can see outside the fence where the children are constantly walking to and from school, they all smile and wave.....And giggle... I should also mention our round of day and night guards that stand post at the gate. It is a giant metal gate with a small hole that pops open after a knock...We are then greeted by a tall guard that is holding an AK-47. Today was the first morning that I wasn't startled by this sight....Seeing policemen on the street with guns is another story, that will take some time.

We all went out last night to "Bamboo". It was already dark when we left the house and because of the distance we were told to take bodas. Imagine a group of 20 munus walking down the street waving their hands as to call a taxi in America. We learned that you should always confirm the amount before getting on (which was side saddle for me since I had a skirt on), because they like to change the amount upon arrival. We all doubled up and agreed on 2000 shillings (about $1.00). Andy and I shared and followed the group and prayed as we were now mock speed in the dark dodging people, dogs, other bodas, and bikes. Sharing saved money and eased all of our minds when we seemed like we were being taken into the bush (sorry mom). We finally arrived at Bamboo and walked up on a beautiful outdoor area that was "bumping" with reggae music. We drank "Club" beer and had a giant munu dance party. VERY fun...AND, the bar had toilets, with toilet seats!!! Definitely a good spot.

The way home got interesting as the Bamboo dog ran after our bodas all the way back to the house. (This made me horribly sad and I missed my Magpie). There are random dogs that walk around and most are clearly strays; this one was loving and wanted nothing but attention. Right down the street from the house our driver attempted a 180 and Andy and I definitely encountered our first boda accident. The bike was at a near stop and we tipped over. Looking back we decided that I will never be on the end again as the driver asked Andy why he was "so close" to him. (Mind you these little bikes have single seats) All in all a great night, with great laughs, and definitely great friends already. Jenni stands "on watch" for long call and Nathan saved me from the tarantula that tried to eat my toes in the shower. (biggest spider EVER)

At 6:15 tonight we finally get to meet our teachers!

Finally........I'm "Home"

After planes, trains, buses, and bodas I have finally arrived in Gulu. I should start from the beginning and document the travels that have occurred...

I'll start with how it felt to be in NYC about to check my bags only to find out that they were too heavy (big surprise, right?!). Of course mom was still on airport grounds to help assess the situation...And just as fate may have it Andy was standing behind me in line...So after feeling like I've "known" someone for a while our first meeting was a hit as I was able to laugh at the situation and successfully avoid a panic attack. A few hours later me and the rest of our new "family" were sitting in the middle of JFK getting ready to embark on our adventure. Luckily Andy stuck by me for the flight that I thought may kill me...The point was for us to sleep on the plane over to London being it was "night"....Riiiiiight. Completely laughable.

Once in London we filed off the plane and into the city dirty, dazed, and still not fully comprehending that we hadn't reached our destination. We got to explore the "Tube" (London transit system), saw guards, Big Ben, and other random landmarks. We sat in on a Sikhism protest, wandered the National Gallery, and discussed the lack of garbage cans in the city. Once we got back to the airport we had sheer minutes before we boarded the plane that would deliver us into "The Pearl of Africa". Again, we begged people around us to switch seats and succeeded. Now, after sheer and utter exhaustion our heads were "wagging" before the plane even moved on the runway. I was elated to know I may catch a few hours. The 8 hour flight passed quickly (kind of) and the stomach issues were beginning to set in. It was a combination of altitude, lack of sleep, lack of "real" food, and my body becoming acclimated to my new daily pill, Malarone...MMMM, Malaria pills.

The landing was priceless. It still didn't feel real as we became closer to the red dirt of Uganda. The plane stopped and there was a moment of panic as I realized that I did it. I am in Uganda. I made it. I made it with minimal freaking out. Scary, very scary....And extremely exciting. As I stepped off the plane to the platform outside I was literally breathless as the hot, thick air hot me. I looked out to see a landscape that no movie I have ever watched could give justice to. Again, there was no real time for reflection as we moved onto a crowded bus to get our bags, check our passports, and "clean up". This did not consist of changing clothes so now I was on over 24 hours in the same clothes. (I was already getting used to this). We met in the girls bathroom to share waterless soap, deodorant, toothpaste, and random hand sanitizers. From there we loaded 18 people with 6 weeks of luggage on another minibus. At this point it was hard not to feel like family as personal space has also become completely laughable. We arrived at Backpackers, our hostel and mock home for the night.

First hostel experience was great. I learned how to really hover while going to the bathroom. (Yes, the toilets "flushed"). I have gotten over my bashful attitude when I realized the showers were in an open room. It was by far the coldest water I have ever felt in my entire life....It felt so good. I am also learning how to check the floor for spiders, step into dry clothes from a wet shower, and remembering to bring bottled water to brush my teeth with. We went to a school in Kampala near the hostel where we got a grand tour. The students and teachers were amazing. They were the most welcoming people I have ever met with pride and passion for their education. Children here smile and run after us as if we were part of a carnival. We are constantly stared at and called "Munus". We learned that this is a bad thing, we are very interesting to them.

We had a group dinner at an Indian restaurant afterwards, still battling the stomach cramps. I thought a good night's rest would be the cure but sleeping in a room with 5 sets of filled double bunk beds and a bunk mosquito net that was "caressing" my face was not so comfortable. The next morning we gathered our belongings and tried to repack the 3+ bags that we had all taken for our 6 hour bus ride to Gulu. I gave the group their necklaces and once again we were united as a family...going "home".

Bavubuka was our stop in between. An organization based on the foundations of art, music, and women's empowerment. Beautiful, absolutely beautiful. We were read poetry, watched dances and rapping, and amused by the community children that were captivated by our sunglasses. After the presentations we were excited to buy materials that would support and enhance such positive energy.

The bus ride was not as bad as expected. The road to Gulu is in the process of improvement and we only counted bumps for the last hour. We stopped half way for a "short call" (in the U.S. we would say #1). The scenery was absolutely breathtaking as we traveled down a single lane road at mock speed with the windows open sucking in the warm African air (which is sometimes hinted with smells including burning clay to make bricks, burning manure, and yes, burning garbage). We crossed over the Nile!!!!! This is a dream, I thought. I looked at both sides of my surroundings to see the longest river in the world rushing underneath me. We also found out that this is where we would be rafting.

Upon arrival at our house I felt like an episode of The Real World as we all ran from room to room examining our new home. We have 2 bathroom and 2 showers. Let me explain- the bathrooms are for "short calls" only and our toilet paper is thrown in a waste basket next to the toilet. Outside in our backyard there are 2 pit latrines.....Ahhhh, the pit latrines. These are for "long calls" (#2)....Picture coming soon. But yes, it is a hole in the ground, that's it. Pablo has taught is that we must "embrace the situation". And I have....Twice. I will note that when we arrived it was dark and the latrines were both filled with geckos, grasshoppers, and ummmm, cockroaches....I'm working on accepting this.

We had dinner cooked by our house chef "Jennifer"...A sweet, Ugandan girl who comes in and cooks both breakfast and dinner for our giant family. And finally, a good night's rest with a nice roomy mosquito net (that Andy has taught us is like "the womb"). Our days are jam packed. We have already had language class, culture class, and a very exciting entrance to the Invisible Children Headquarters. I had my first boda boda ride last night....This means that I hopped on the back of what looks like a cross between a moped and a motorcycle and cruised home weaving in and out of people, bicycles, and other bodas. Also very exciting.

We also had our first Ugandan beer last night....Bell Lager, very flavorful...Lacking the hops of some of my favorites back home, but still delicious.

I am a 5-10 minute walk from here, Kope Cafe, a cute internet cafe decorated like a tree house with FREE wi-fi!!! I will do my best to keep this internet diary in a more readable form instead of that of a novel. I am including pictures of Big Ben in London, first Africa shot, our hostel, a monkey who came to say "hello", Andy and Joe with friends from the Kampala school, our house, and children from the organization.

I thought I was ready...

I leave for NYC in 3 hours...You would think that I'm all "ready to go"... I am kind of finished packing... (Let me set the scene)- The grand bag that I journeyed to REI for and thought was such a great idea was WAY too small; but instead of admitting that in the early stages of packing my mom and I arranged, rearranged, and unhappily took items out, still no luck. I decided to suck it up and admit that I needed to use the extremely large yet plain suitcase that has no nifty pockets, zippable backstraps, or hidden compartments. "Hmmm, you think I'll be over the weight limit?" I should be in bed taking a "nap" before we start the 13 hour drive;sleep is also a laughable concept right now. I am too sleep deprived to decipher the emotions that are changing so quickly I'm getting whiplash, so I'll just be blunt and say I'm "electrified".

Lastly I would like to add that I had the pleasure of saying some amazing good-byes and the support and reassurance is keeping me afloat. I will have a lot to think about on my 2 day journey to get to Uganda.

Surprisingly, in my state of sleep deprivation I have also successfully set up a Skype account and look forward to the amusing "conversations" that I will have with my parents...AND a few besties who I know will creatively use the video to our advantage.